Tocqueville Restaurant in New York City is just down the block from its former location. Lush drapery, plush carpeting and lofty ceilings glam up a golden-hued dining room that drips with modern sophistication. The genuine, genteel staff welcomes a diverse, demure crowd--ranging from veteran foodies to young, splurging couples--with adroit refinement and without a hint of snobbery.
Fans are happy to see that some of chef Marco Moreira's signature items--like the delicate, creamy sea urchin and angel hair carbonara--have made the journey. Equally elegant combinations include slivers of briny Portuguese sardines with a bite of blood orange and soothing olive oil marinade; a flawlessly textured butter-poached lobster, slightly sweetened with spaghetti and kabocha squash; and a gingery bacalhau countering a silken cod filet. A roast suckling pig comes off as one-note with such competition, but it works for comfort seekers. The polenta cake bound by braised pineapple, yogurt and cilantro rounds out a similarly alluring dessert menu.